Tips and Advice for Winterizing Your Old

HOW DO I WINTERIZE MY OLD CAR?

This is a question that comes up every year at this time, so we decided to write this little tutorial to try and help you (we will add steps daily, so don't forget to visit this page regularly).

The first thing you need to know before talking about winter storage for your classic car is that a car does not like to be immobilized for long periods, summer or winter.

And if rain, cold, snow or even salt on the roads worry you, it is still possible to take some precautions and follow some tips so that your beauty has a good winter.

Obviously, the location where your car will be stored for the winter is of great importance, the main enemy being humidity and a well-ventilated garage is ideal.

It also goes without saying that it is best to thoroughly wash/clean and especially dry your car before storing it.

Step 1: Your battery

Every battery requires special care, especially in winter. Indeed, when a battery remains connected, it will eventually discharge even if the ignition is off. Furthermore, batteries don't like cold or freezing temperatures, and as you've probably noticed in your more modern cars, they don't always deliver their full power in cold weather.

Therefore, a battery that is not recharged for too long will lose its autonomy and power, even to the point of no longer holding a charge.

Option 1: Disconnect the battery (and/or remove it from the vehicle). You can leave your battery in place; in this case, simply disconnect the terminals or install a battery disconnect switch (see below).
If your car is stored in a place where temperatures are likely to be below freezing, remove the battery and place it in a dry, frost-free location (but not in a place above 15°C).

Option 2: Use a battery maintenance charger/conditioner. These chargers have a function to maintain the battery capacity at 95–100% and can be left plugged in throughout the winter.

Option 3: Recharge your battery regularly (approximately every 3 weeks), either with a standard charger or by running the engine.

Step 2: The Tires

When you store your car for extended periods, your tires may become deformed under the car's weight (flat spots or oval shape). A few precautions can be taken to prevent this:

Option 1: You can, for example, inflate your tires above the normal recommended pressures. This is perfectly safe since you're not driving, and it limits deformation and the risk of flat tires.
For example, for a "normal" pressure of 2 bar, you can inflate to approximately 3 bar for storage, but be careful not to exceed the maximum permissible pressure!

And above all, don't forget to adjust/lower the tire pressures when you get back in your car.

Option 2: If you have easy access to your car, manually rotate the wheels a few quarter turns or half turns regularly so that it does not remain on the same side of the tire during its immobilization.

Option 3: You can also use anti-ovalisation wheel chocks for prolonged parking.

With their rounded shape, these wedges help prevent tires from becoming oval on vehicles during winter storage.

Option 4: A final option is to put your car on jack stands.
This solution is certainly the best if you do not plan to use your car for a long period of time, but obviously requires a little more work to set up and should only be used if your car has suitable stable supports and it is unlikely to damage the chassis or floors.

Personally, I always recommend removing the wheels of the car when it is on jack stands for an extended period; this avoids stress/suspended weight on the running gear.

Step 3: Is the gas tank empty or full?

We are now entering a topic that divides opinions. So let's start with a bit of theory.
You have certainly noticed the phenomenon of condensation on your car windows in the morning in winter? It is simply the transformation of water in a vapor state into "liquid" water when it comes into contact with a cold surface such as a window, for example.

The same thing happens in your fuel tank, and an empty or half-empty tank subjected to temperature fluctuations is prone to condensation (water mixes with the fuel at a rate of approximately 1 gram of water per liter of air). Therefore, the fuller your tank is, the less air it contains, and consequently, the less water will be in your fuel! Hence the importance of filling up before winter storage. QED???

It is also important to note that modern cars are equipped with plastic tanks which react much better to current fuels, fuels which also no longer have treatments/additives against oxidation caused by metal residues from older generation tanks.

Because the tank walls of our classic motorcycles are made of metal and are generally untreated, moisture attacks the metal, causing corrosion spots to gradually appear. Deposits of corroded metal then begin to coat the bottom of the tank and will mix with the gasoline when you refuel. These deposits will oxidize the gasoline and can eventually clog the tank strainer, the fuel filter, or even the carburetor bowl.

It's important to know that, depending on the conditions, gasoline can be stored for 3 to 10 months before losing its characteristics: after this period, it will change in odor, color (reddish-brown), and octane rating. The less gasoline there is in the tank, the faster it will degrade.

It should be noted that these phenomena of condensation, oxidation etc. do not happen overnight and depend mainly on temperature fluctuations, therefore they will be less pronounced in regions with a temperate climate.

So there you have it, I have the answer: you must always have a full tank when I store my classic. Yes, but be careful!!!

Ethanol, increasingly present in modern fuels, is a hygroscopic substance, meaning it absorbs moisture from the air. If your tank is full, there won't be much air, resulting in less moisture and ultimately little to no oxidation.

But what about your carburetors, for example? Consult the article we wrote on ethanol and Weber carburetors (see here ) and you'll better understand the potential damage caused by ethanol. But if I have to run my carburetors empty and my tank full, what should I do?
If you have an electric fuel pump connected to a separate switch (as we recommend to our customers installing carburetor conversion kits on their cars), simply turn off the pump before turning off your engine to drain the system and your carburetor bowls. If you have a mechanical pump, this tip is obviously not possible. Some will advise you to add a fuel stabilizer to preserve your fuel. Personally, and this is just my opinion, I don't really believe in it. It certainly can't hurt, but to prevent all the problems that can be related to condensation, oxidation, and hygroscopicity?

Step 4: Let's talk liquids.

Of course, checking your oil level is essential and adding some new oil if necessary is advised.

It's a good idea to change your engine oil before storing your car if it's old. Used oil contains metallic particles and moisture, both of which are harmful during prolonged periods of inactivity.

No, it's not a head gasket problem, but just moisture/condensation deposited on the oil filler cap after the vehicle has been sitting for a long time...

If possible, run your engine at least every 3 weeks to circulate the oil, lubricate the engine block, and prevent it from solidifying. Make sure the engine reaches operating temperature properly (not just for 3 minutes).

Another tip is to remove your spark plugs and pour a thin stream of oil into the holes with an oil can; this lubricates the top of the engine and prevents corrosion.

You can also spray light oil or rust inhibitor on parts susceptible to corrosion (unpainted engine block parts or metal parts).

If your coolant is a bit old, it's best to replace it with new coolant (coolants tend to lose their antifreeze properties over time).

And make sure that your antifreeze coolant/water ratio is correct because freezing water in your cooling system could have very serious consequences.

Finally, if you are not using an all-season or winter windshield washer fluid, remember to empty your reservoir to prevent the fluid from freezing and damaging the system.